Putting down roots in healthy Cape Town cuisine (Plant Cafe review)

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It’s my habit, when in foreign restaurants, to close my eyes and point at anything on the menu. It takes care of my illiteracy, and doesn’t take the mystery out of the meal. Of course, it works better for omnivores with tough stomachs, and I no longer qualify in that department. Eating out isn’t easy for plant-based junkies. Salads are swathed in cheese, and veg thai curry is infused, unannounced, with fish sauce. I usually go for fries as a compromise and hope that my arteries will forgive the needs of my gut and conscience. How wonderful, then, to eat at a local restaurant in Cape Town where I can do the same and know that everything is safe.

This animal-friendly eatery in the centre of town is as clean-looking as it is clean-living, replete with its own vertical garden. Earth-loving patrons will also love its green contribution, as the establishment uses no meat or animal products at all.  It’s got a feather-light carbon footprint compared to the other eco sink-holes in the city.

Maybe I should have used the finger trick to choose : with so many options, FOMO kicked in. The menu is packed with an array of dishes for all dining moods. ‘You can just come back again’ I reminded myself.

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After a starter round of red latte with almond milk (me) and miso soup for my date, I almost went for what I suspect is the house favourite (and is certainly my dinner mate’s favourite) but it didn’t make sense for us to have the same meal. Mine was a mild mushroom and spinach lasagne with a creamy butternut white sauce that appeared too big to finish, but fitted well in my tummy and even left a little room for dessert. My date raised his eyebrows when his mains arrived and said, ‘Dayyim. Now THIS is meat.’ Mushroom burgers maketh man, it seems; the man opposite me, the men in the street passing by and giving his burger the hungry eye while he made rather suggestive sounds (and I don’t mean chewing with his mouth open).

Tam, the manager, had kindly kept sweet treats aside for us. A chocolate brownie and a raw cake that melts in the mouth with hints of berries proved that there’s no need to feel left out when you don’t eat butter or dairy.

If you prefer good (healthy, delicious, vegan) food, and you love the earth, take a trip to Plant Cafe in the Mother City. Even better if you arrive on a bicycle!

If you think Plant Cafe should be featured on Eco Atlas for their eco ethics then recommend them here!

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The Greyton Transition Town Project

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 New knowledge and ability through tummies and trash

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The concept of community participation is one that enjoys much support in theory and far less in reality. Apart from awe at power and celebrity, online petitions and taxes, I mean. At some point, one realises that society, an apartheid legacy and the economy are just not going to cut it if you’re investigating or investing in living consciously. Going greener isn’t simple. Investing in equality isn’t easy. And yet, some people do both anyway, and in one part of the Western Cape they have a name for this.

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Welcome to Greyton Transition Town, an ideology in action that belies the faded tourist billboard that welcomes you to leafy rural suburbia, its many gift shops and art galleries and its many more economically challenged citizens, mostly only seen milling about near the local shops. As a person of relative privilege in or visiting South Africa, how do you address the apathy and disempowerment that a legacy of colonialism, apartheid and economic disadvantage incurs, though? Marshall starts with the stomach, and makes his way to the trash can.

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He and Transition Town partner, Nicola, are actively addressing the realities that surround them. Nicola is an animal sanctuary owner, fundraiser, events coordinator and go-to person for the movement which takes its inspiration from a similar project in Totnes, United Kingdom. Together, they run garden and feeding schemes at local schools, teaching children and teens self-sufficiency and healthy eating habits through a process called permaculture. Permaculture is an organic gardening practise that uses various natural laws to extract abundance from the earth without compromising its ability to feed future generations. The focus on permaculture encouraged them to approach local farmers, who now use no chemicals on parts of their fields, and sell directly to residents at a local market, increasing their profit margins and reducing the amount of packaging and the impact of the cold chain in the process.   The new knowledge these youngsters develop also gives them new work and career opportunities, as Marshall is often contacted by bodies seeking exactly their expertise.

Recognising that there was also an opportunity in and need for recycling they organised an independent recycler to collect trash regularly, and started a swap shop to encourage locals to bring in recyclable goods. The citizen recyclers are paid in clothes, food, shoes and other necessities given by larger chains and supportive charities, empowering those with less cash and changing the way locals view trash. Speaking of which, The Transition Town movement also birthed the Trash to Treasure Festival, which rehabilitated an old dumpsite with a clean-up and a new orchard and threw a big party to bring attention to the potential in our waste and the waste of our potential. It’s clear to see that these collective efforts are not a waste of time.

Their headquarters, The Eco Lodge, is a repurposed municipal building that now hosts and accommodates community gatherings for people at every level of the LSM ladder, from school tours to mini-conferences, and if you’re lucky, you may get a vegan meal from Ruwayda, Marshall’s loving wife. If you’re not, you could visit Pure Café, a plant-based eatery that specialises in the most mouth-watering desserts that are completely animal-free (vegan).

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Whether you remember it as a transition town or simply those guys giving kids in Genadendal a chance, this is a great example of the power of intention, action and its knock-on effect in building a more inclusive and empowered community.

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TIP : to get the full experience, get your hands dirty and add your story to the bigger picture.

(Read more about Greyton Transition Town and get all their contact details on their Eco Atlas page.)

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5 (green) reasons to stay at Fynbos Ridge, Plett

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For every star on their five star rating, the folks at Fynbos Ridge have also made an effort to give you a first class, eco-conscious experience. It’s so seamlessly integrated; you may not notice it against the luxury finishes, fine gardens and delicious fare, so here are 5 reasons for the eco warrior to stay at Fynbos Ridge Country House and Cottages in Plett:

 

  1. Accessible. Country stays often entail interesting and unusual dirt roads better suited to trucks and SUVs. Fynbos Ridge is a Garden Route wonder just a few minutes from the N2, on a well-maintained level dirt road that your tyres will flow over smoothly. When you’ve been led through the bundus (bush) by Waze and Google Maps against your will and intention, this is a relief.  But more than this, a well-kept country road means less low-gear driving, which means less fuel emissions on your eco mission.
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  2. Personable. The personal touch is felt from the moment you arrive through every interaction and long after you’ve left. The proprietors are hands-on folk, gentle, focused and attentive. This may not sound like an eco-aspect, but with eco consciousness still at grassroots level in South Africa, individual effort is key to its growth, and being in the company of those who care is a wonderful way to participate. Ask Liz and Brian about their relationship with the local baboons, their recommendation for good food in the area, and how they have become a certified carbon neutral establishment. They have much love for what they do, and how they do it.Fynbos-Ridge-PLETT-(3)
  3. What footprint? We all have one. Five star establishments especially. This particular guest house, however, has made concerted efforts to neutralise theirs and embrace the green revolution that is sweeping the hospitality industry (link to responsible tourism eco page or a list of relevant listing of hospitality establishments in the Western Cape). They do this with annual tree-planting that you can be part of.
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  4. Unusual community. Meet your new best friends, Riley and Ruby. They are the two hairy hogs that you’ll discover foraging and frolicking around the grounds. They are part of the Fynbos Ridge family, respected, respectable, clean and cute. Apparently they’re also a rather small breed, though they easily reach a lady’s knees. It’s great to see intelligent domestic animals included in the eco system here and there’s no doubt that their hooves and snouts do as much for the undergrowth as their droppings and nibblings do.
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  5. Excellent eco choices. Discerning travellers will appreciate that they hold a TripAdvisor Certificate Of Excellence for 2014, but Fynbos Ridge is also careful to cater to the future in their five star establishment. Their efforts to reduce their and your impact on the environment include: biodegradable cleaning products, solar heating, recycling, integrating indigenous plant life, bio-friendly sewage treatment, burning schedules and alien plant removal to restore the property to its natural state.

So if you’re on a business trip in Plett or Knysna, attending one of the amazing festivals in the area or taking a well-deserved luxury break, it’s good to know that you can do it with a clearer conscience, and still get your golf on, and play a little polo while you’re at it!

If you’d like to read more about their eco choices, the accommodation or make a booking, visit their Eco Atlas page.

Living life naturally in rural Bereaville

 Live like a local on the gentle slopes of a colourful community

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What does Bereaville look like? I arrived at night, so I had no idea at first. Horses at the bus stop. Pedestrians navigating by moonlight. By light of day few of the pale Greytonians I met even knew what I was talking about. “You mean Genadendal?” they asked, as if their local knowledge reached just that far. Bereaville is a five-minute drive on the other side of Greyton’s immediate neighbour, a colourful rural settlement full of life.

I went because I liked the look of Poespasrivier Cottage from its pictures (though less so its name, and that is all I will say on the subject), a missionary’s cottage nestled beneath great gum trees. Enter Bereaville up a gentle gravel road and it sits watching the small, shallow valley. Repossessed from the toll time takes on all things and restored with love and local knowledge, its main walls are thick as a pregnant belly and its corners are often curved. Adobe houses have a friendliness I’ve not found in other types of buildings. They’re typified by irregular edges, solid structures, and no foundations, at least in this area. Back in the day, they didn’t dig deep, they just built strong. Which doesn’t stop gravity from tugging over time.

When restoration began on this 150-year old home, a whole corner of it had to be repossessed and reshaped in the restoration process, Reverend Angora consulted the expertise of an American architect and took much care to include local knowledge and workmanship and original and natural materials.  The full story is beautifully-written here  and will give you a deeper appreciation of the quaint, resilient cottage.

These days it’s fully kitted out with energy-aware everything – a gas-powered shower, gas stove, small electric fridge, composting WC. The lights are energy savers and the walls are natural insulators. I slept with all the windows wide open, so that the sounds of the weekend world of Bereaville could be the soundtrack to my evening. Donkey brays in the dark. Horse whinnies. Laughter to the left. Singing to the right. On Sunday morning I woke up seconds before the local church bell, and blinked my eyes open to the sound of choral voices wafting through the window. I felt I was in the company of something greater than me, and was grateful to the Reverend for striking out and giving travellers an opportunity to be part of a corrugated community like this. That, and the peach trees and grapevine which will forever be growing into the gaps in my mind. The patio is perfect for brunches, lunches and a bit of painting, too.

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Find out more about Poespasrivier Cottage.

Have you been here? Write an eco review and you could win one of three super eco friendly hampers for body or home.

Class and comfort in an eco-strong stone cottage

Effort and elegance make a more sustainable holiday stay in Plettenberg Bay

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When I decorate my home, I’ll base it on Stone Cottage’s “eclectic elegance”.  Colourful but never cluttered, rustic but never rusty, its balance of antique and contemporary makes it a self-catered space that has everything you need – including hot water bottles.

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Place this on a hill just seconds from central Plettenberg Bay and minutes from the ocean, and you’ve got a small-town holiday home that beautifully blends location, decoration and consideration for the environment.

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We arrived tired and wired from a long, hot, slow drive through the Eastern Cape. It was dusk, and Dimi was waiting, gently, quietly, full of fun and good ideas. One of them was Old Nick’s fresh produce market the next day, and another was the Jacuzzi, warmed and watery.

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Don’t tell our parents, but Emma and I sank into its gently humming depths in the pouring rain. It’s treated with biodegradable products and, when refilled, feeds their organic veggie garden adjacent. Guests are invited to forage in this little food forest by a board in the kitchen that tells you which plants are ready for harvesting. Dimi will also personally source organic, locally produced foods and goods for you.

 

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“I try to plan my trips so that I can walk as much as possible,” she says, aware of how easy it is to forget the hefty carbon footprint of a quick drive to the shop.  A strong sense of involvement at Stone Cottage is a great inspiration for greener living at home.

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Bins are provided for all recyclable goods, including the ones less often reused, like single-use soft plastics. These are repurposed into Wish Brix (aka Eco Bricks) used to build low-cost, recycled structures in development projects around South Africa.  Stone Cottage asks you to put your solar-powered, Consol jar  night lights out on the immense balcony to recharge during the day (and save electricity at night), and points out that your organic waste feeds their worm farm.

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Other considerations include a deep, double sink that is hard to fill up with dirty dishes and a range of comfy cushions that are as colourful as they are comfortable. Your afternoon reading session will definitely morph into a napping marathon with them around.

 

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Sleeping to the sound of the ocean at night is amazing, and the gentle hum of the town during the day is great for guests who like to feel connected to urban energy whilst taking time out. The bed is sublime; I am sure I snored.

TIP : Grab some mint from the garden and add to just-boiled water for the freshest morning tea in town.

Read more about Stone Cottage’s eco and ethical choices on their Eco Atlas webpage and why not write a review if you’ve been, you could win one of three fabulous eco friendly hampers for body or home! All the #EcoFeelGood Competition details are here.

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A new view at Buccaneers

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It takes hard work and vision to build a world that works

Getting lost in Cintsa is as easy as pronouncing its name is not – “Tsk”-IN-t-SAH. Along the way, you’ll see marvellous aberrations, I mean adaptations of the word on road signs advertising everything from trees to beer. Very entertaining.  Maybe that’s why I struggled to find it.  Maybe it was Google Maps’ crowd-sourced content or the receptionist’s colourful directions. It definitely doesn’t matter; I’m not the first to get lost in the sticks and I won’t be the last to look upon this piece of the Eastern Cape coastline with wonder.

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Pulling in to Buccaneers in time for a delicious dinner, I dined with the co-owner, Sean Price, a marvellously incisive and passionate man who approaches his work responsibly and efficiently.

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Going greener is ideal, but easier in some ways than in others and small businesses have a big challenge here. Growing herbs and harvesting rainwater –  which they do – is not quite as complicated (or as expensive) as going off-grid, which they’d like to do. For any existing tourism and hospitality business to serve both the law and the land, this usually means major changes to existing infrastructure and a significant investment in appropriate alternative energy. Speaking of which, Buccaneers is busy changing its garbage disposal process in alignment with new regulations. “We manage ALL our waste ourselves,” Sean pointed out before outlining how they are continuing their existing commitment by upgrading their processes at their own expense. Buccaneers is also Fair Trade Certified since 2010 and believes that business can be an instrument of change as long as it’s economically viable.  The question of whether business can, by itself, afford to invest in the gamut of sustainable solutions still sits in my mind next to the question of whether we can afford not to as a species. I left the dining room deep in thought.

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My home for the night was a stylish wooden house on stilts called Biko. I’m glad my host did him justice by giving me a lot to think about and that the finishes were clean and fine to calm me. In that little palace with its wonderful view of the river opening out into the ocean, I pondered the balance of things in the company of complimentary beach towels, polished floors, and a beautiful shower. Would I give aspects of this up for Mother Nature? Would I need to if products and services that serve the earth were cheaper? Can the consumer subsidise this, or must government?  Having failed to solve the problem of this aspect of the human condition in one evening, I went to sleep with the song of the ocean wafting up through the windows.

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Tip : get up extra early for spectacular sunrises.

To find out more about the social and environmental priorities focussed on at Buccaneers, visit their page on Eco Atlas.

Taking Time out in Treehaven, PLETT

The secret of the Garden Route is its surprises. Hanois Crescent winds up the side of a Plett hill that appears fairly ordinary and urban. Getting out at number 45 is a point of departure as well as arrival. You know that wands are made from trees, right? Maybe that explains the magic …

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Winding down wooden steps, I came to a bright doorway that suggested a Bauhaus for hobbits: clean, cute and classy. It opened to a ‘reception’  that felt more like a huge tree house that blends dining room, kitchen, patio and bush. A cascade of creativity and nature and optimal use of space: that’s Feo Sachs’ touch. He’s the resident architect responsible for every building in the spell or, rather, dell. Entire walls of glass and clever angles lend each separate building grandeur and nature in equal proportions. It’s mesmerising. And perfect for guests with dogs as TreeHaven is pet friendly.

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After introductions, Feo’s wife, Carol, whisked me off on a maze of lush pathways snaking through dappled milkwood and wild olive boughs.  On the way I met worms with their own farm. “Vermiculture” said the artist slash tour guide, “we give them all our organic waste, and I feed all my plants with their juice and encourage my staff to sell it for extra cash.” The ingenuity and generosity of a good person with a natural plan still curls through my mind with the paths, like the lines in her paintings. You’ll see them spotted around the dwellings, celebrating life.

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For a change of mood from your own balcony or view, take a walk around the garden and find the little bench amongst the jasmine bushes and you’ll understand why the proprietors think of it as their own private biome.

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The studio I stayed in is a corner of paradise replete with nesting Loeries and a north-facing patio that tracks the sun season in, season out.

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Immersed in natural isolation despite having neighbours nearby, I didn’t leave for the rest of the day, though the beach was calling and the weather near perfect.

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When strains of Carol and Feo’s classical music faded, I tuned in to a myriad of other winged ones singing the song of a sunny afternoon in a private idyll. By nightfall, the frogs sang too, and sleep was deep.

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Tip  : use insect repellent. Big mozzies from the bullrushes below.

To find out more about their Eco Choices or make a booking, visit the Treehaven page on Eco Atlas.

Sabi Sabi – a sophisticated and sustainable luxury destination

Most people associate the name Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve with the best of safari luxury that South Africa has to offer. A continuous presence on the Top Hotels of the World lists as well as a steady stream of celebrity guests solidifies this perception. Add to this some of the best game viewing in the land, and a wide range of luxury lodges and you are nearly there. Under the theme “yesterday, today and tomorrow” there are no less than 4 differently themed all-suite lodges within the reserve, ranging from traditional to ultra-modern.

Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve is perhaps best-known for their superb big cat viewing

Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve is perhaps best-known for their superb big cat viewing

At Selati Camp, the romantic colonial (“yesterday”) era has been recreated using thatched roofs, antiques and wooden floors. Little Bush Camp and Bush Lodge represent “today” with their contemporary African design and spacious suites. Earth Lodge provides a delicate and modern space where nature plays the leading role; a new breed of safari lodge that is pointing the way towards “tomorrow”. As different as the lodges are, they all have unrivalled luxury and service worthy of kings and queens in common (in fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if one or two royalties have stayed here, but Sabi Sabi are too discreet to ever tell us about that).

However, some of you will have noticed that I said “nearly there” earlier. There is one more, vital ingredient in Sabi Sabi’s recipe for success: their people. Everyone, from maintenance to management is proud to work here and this shows. You will always be greeted with a warm smile, and people are more than willing to go the extra mile to ensure that every guest feels like a VIP. Being a caring, nurturing and encouraging employer has afforded Sabi Sabi total loyalty and commitment from their employees. Many have worked here their whole career and consider themselves family. As a guest, you feel this pride and loyalty not only in the service you receive but also in the depth of knowledge that your hosts share with you.

Parts of the big Sabi Sabi family

Parts of the big Sabi Sabi family

Over and above being one of the largest individual employers in the area, Sabi Sabi supports the local communities through a wide range of projects. These range from sponsoring a crèche, to youth development through sports and environmental education. Guests also have the opportunity to visit the communities and learn more about the Shangaan culture through the Community Tour; created and guided by one of Sabi Sabi’s employees Lodrick Manyathele. The way Lodrick has gone from being an employee at the lodge to successfully running everything related to the Community Tour, including community liaison, budgets, staff, marketing, scheduling, guiding and much more, is but one of the many stories of how Sabi Sabi empowers their employees and create opportunities for them to grow while at the same time providing their guests with an even richer experience!

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Lodrick’s Community Tour is bound to leave you feeling happy

Sabi Sabi really is for discerning travellers that want it all. Not just luxury, sophistication, excellent game viewing and great service but also a commitment to people and places that ultimately leads to The Complete Experience.

Katarina Mancama

 

 

About the author:

Katarina loves to travel and this passion has taken her to many places around the globe. She was born and raised in Sweden then lived, studied and worked in Australia, The UK, Panama and Switzerland before making South Africa her home in 2005.

She has a Master’s degree in Responsible Tourism and has dedicated her career to ensuring that tourism benefits the people, places and communities that make it happen. She is also the founder of Simply South Africa, a platform for travellers that want to Explore hidden gems, Experience up-close and personal encounters with people and places & Embrace South Africa by making sustainable choices:

http://simplysouthafrica.wordpress.com/

https://www.facebook.com/ExploreExperienceEmbrace

http://instagram.com/simplysouthafrica

 

Homegrown at the Vineyard

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The Vineyard Hotel & Spa, set on the shady eastern slopes of Table Mountain, extends from an original Georgian homestead across eight lush hectares of indigenous riverside parkland. This is an oasis of luxury and tranquility, but behind the scenes there is a flurry of activity aimed at ensuring that this 207-roomed hotel and busy conference centre treads as lightly as possible on the Earth. The Vineyard is totally committed to operating in an environmentally friendly fashion, and has implemented an impressive range of measures to ensure this. This ranges from changing to LED lights in the conference centre (leading to a 75% energy saving) to installation of a state-of-the-art energy efficient laundry (another 34% energy saving) and the upcoming installation of  solar panels for generation of green energy. Chris van Zyl, the Sustainability Manager at the Vineyard explained so many initiatives to me that this would become more of a novel than a blog if a wrote them all down. But if you are interested, there is a dedicated section on the Vineyard’s website where you can read all about it.

Chris is not the only person passionate about sustainability at the Vineyard. In fact, everyone I spoke to seemed to have the same attitude, and there was no mistaking that the staff are proud of where they work. The enthusiasm of sous chef Shane Louw particularly captured my attention. He took me of a whirlwind tour of all his favourite initiatives to produce vegetables, herbs and fruit on the hotel property. There was sharp rocket, colourful spinach, sweet basil, majestic artichokes, juicy blueberries and tangy Cape gooseberries in his gardens, and on the rooftop were lemon trees that provided the main ingredients for the delicious lemonade that guests are offered upon check-in. Often, Shane will take a little walk to the veggie gardens in the morning (not a bad way to start your day I might add; they are set on the slopes of the Liesbeek River in the midst of perfectly manicured indigenous gardens) to find inspiration for the day’s specials in the Square Restaurant.

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Shane showing off the lovely herb garden

I asked Shane whether it actually makes a difference to use local, organic produce and his response was “I would not feel comfortable serving my guests food that I don’t know where it came from. We grow our own organic herbs and vegetables, but I also personally know the farmers and fishermen that provide what we cannot produce. That way, I know that the ingredients are the best and freshest, and we also contribute to the local economy.”  There is no mistaking that Shane only serves the best in the Square restaurant. My chicken salad was superb, and the cheesecake with strawberry jelly and lavender icecream was to die for!

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Whether you are an overnight guest, or just visit for lunch or dinner at the Square, the Vineyard is an indulgence in luxury that leaves a sweet aftertaste and does not cost the Earth!

Spinach in the Vineyard's veggie garden: beautiful, organic and no doubt turned into a very tasty dish by Shane and his team!

Spinach in the Vineyard’s veggie garden: beautiful, organic and no doubt turned into a very tasty dish by Shane and his team!

 

Lemonade, homemade with own lemons

Lemonade, homemade with own lemons